🚫⚠️📸 𝗔𝘂𝗿𝗼𝗿𝗮 𝗖𝗵𝗮𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗴 & 𝗣𝗵𝗼𝘁𝗼𝗴𝗿𝗮𝗽𝗵𝘆 𝗜𝗻𝗳𝗼 📸 ⚠️🚫

Advice from Michigan Aurora Chasers Group Expert Chase Nawrocki, featuring his photograph of the Eagle Harbor Lighthouse in Michigan

𝗣𝗿𝗲-𝗰𝘂𝗿𝘀𝗼𝗿 𝗧𝗶𝗽: 𝗪𝗔𝗧𝗖𝗛 𝗧𝗛𝗜𝗦 𝗚𝗥𝗢𝗨𝗣 𝗖𝗟𝗢𝗦𝗘𝗟𝗬 𝗙𝗢𝗥 𝗨𝗣𝗗𝗔𝗧𝗘𝗦 𝗢𝗡 𝗦𝗜𝗚𝗛𝗧𝗜𝗡𝗚𝗦 𝗧𝗛𝗜𝗦 𝗪𝗘𝗘𝗞𝗘𝗡𝗗!!!! You will get a heads-up on who is seeing what and the general area where it is seen.

1. ​Firstly, CELL PHONES! Yes, you can catch the aurora with a cell phone…. But the general feedback is that images taken with a cell phone are not overly amazing – this is for a bunch of reasons (small sensor size, camera shake, very grainy photos). However, to make the best out of using your cell phone camera – get a tripod or set the phone steady on something sturdy (like a rock or table or stable surface) set a timer, and don’t hold the camera – let the camera take the shot – by getting the camera out of your hand and placing against a stable surface your image will come out 10 times more clear with less blur.
   
2. For traditional camera photography – Despite what you may think, the lens is actually more important than the camera body – so, no need to spend $1k+ on a nice camera to start out – just spend a fraction of that on some nice glass (anything with f2.8 or wider is good!) – ​And my GO-TO initial quick camera settings: Make sure the lens is in Manual focus – then start with aperture of f2.8 (or widest aperture you have f3.5 is also common) – then set an 8 sec. shutter – and lastly set ISO 3200.​ Then do a test shot – If its too bright, try shortening your shutter speed and ISO (4 Seconds and ISO 1600). If it’s too dark – try to increase shutter speed or ISO (10 seconds and ISO 6400). And as conditions (and lighting) change you will need to adjust the settings as necessary.
   
3. ​NEVER, EVER, EVER shoot in autofocus mode!​ Learn how to use manual mode AND how to use the “Live Digital Focus Trick” for stars and how to tune your lens focus to be perfect (google this if you don’t understand what I am saying).
   
4. Time-lapse videos are really cool, but they can be difficult to produce. Regardless of if cameras have a built in time-lapse the biggest obstacle is actually time – it takes a lot of time to make a time-lapse. If you don’t know what you’re doing you may waste a lot of time trying to make a video. For a minute of video you will most likely need to be outside ALL night!
   
5. Lastly, there are SOOO many other conditions that will dictate your ability to see the aurora (especially the weather and clouds) – don’t wait till the last minute to know where to go, what to take, how to use your camera, and what the weather is….​ You will fail if you don’t do your research.
   ​

🔥🔥𝗖𝗵𝗮𝘀𝗲’𝘀 𝗧𝗢𝗣 𝟮𝟬 𝗖𝗵𝗮𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗧𝗶𝗽𝘀 🔥🔥

Here are my 20 great tips to help with your adventure to seeing and experiencing the greatest light show on Earth! Save these for future reference as they will help you out year round!

While it’s rare for perfect conditions to line up, there are aspects that you can look for to help you decide if an event is “worth” chasing after.​ Here is my cheat sheet checklist for determining how strong my chances are of seeing a Northern Lights display:

1.​ ​Clear skies – as few clouds as possible! ​ (change timeframe and check Sky Cover: https://graphical.weather.gov/sectors/sectorDay.php?sector=michigan

2.​ ​How much moon illumination is there?​ Best conditions happen with 25% or less illumination (check here: https://www.moongiant.com/phase/today/)

3.​ ​How much true dark nighttime will I have?​ (True Dark starts ~2 hours after sunset and ends ~2 hours before sunrise – check your times here: https://www.timeanddate.com/sun/@5010135)

4.​ ​High solar windspeed (generally above 500km/sec)

5.​ ​High power output (KP5 rating or 50+ Gw power)

6.​ ​Negative BZ rating (most important aspect – negative 5 is good, but -10 or lower is amazing)

7.​ ​Solar cycle and sunspot activity (this requires more reading)

8.​ Location north close to Auroral oval (get above 45th Parallel if you can! – essentially north of Traverse City, into the UP or close to Lake Superior)

9.​ ​Dark skies with little light pollution (scout areas using a light pollution map – Google it!)

10.​ ​Try to have as little light pollution as possible directly north of you by 30+ miles – light pollution will detract from your ability to see the lights and it definitely shows up in photos!

11.​ ​Do I have to work tomorrow? (hopefully not, cause you is gon’ be unproductive)

12.​ ​Did I plan anything for the next day? (hopefully not, cause you is gon’ be tired)

13.​ ​How cold it is? (anything below 30 degrees kills batteries, fingers, toes and can be kinda miserable)

14.​ ​How windy is it outside? (this affects the camera and tripod – the more wind, the more potential for camera shake or fall over)

15.​ ​Is there cell service for aurora updates? (just know that some of the best and darkest places have little to no service!)

16.​ ​Having the right camera/lens setup (lots of information here, but ideally the widest aperture and widest angle lens you can get – example f2.8 or lower and 14-20mm are very good)

17.​ ​Quick camera settings: Manual focus on the stars then start with f2.8 (or widest aperture), 8 sec. shutter, ISO 3200.​ Then do a test shot – If its too bright, trying shortening your shutter speed and if is too dark – I would suggest increase shutter speed or ISO. And as conditions (and lighting) change you will need to adjust the settings as necessary.

18.​ ​Lastly, KP5+ or G1+ don’t always equal an aurora – it’s a combination of many of the aspects above.

This website is absolutely fantastic for all data related to the aurora such as the scientific readings, and the atmosphere, however it is very in-depth and requires some Novice to Expert level of knowledge to understand everything: https://www.spaceweather.gov/communities/space-weather-enthusiasts-dashboard

19. 𝗪𝗔𝗧𝗖𝗛 𝗧𝗛𝗜𝗦 𝗚𝗥𝗢𝗨𝗣 𝗖𝗟𝗢𝗦𝗘𝗟𝗬 𝗙𝗢𝗥 𝗨𝗣𝗗𝗔𝗧𝗘𝗦 𝗢𝗡 𝗦𝗜𝗚𝗛𝗧𝗜𝗡𝗚𝗦!!!! 𝗔𝗻𝗱 𝗿𝗲𝗮𝗱 𝘁𝗵𝗿𝗼𝘂𝗴𝗵 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗣𝗜𝗡𝗡𝗘𝗗 𝗣𝗢𝗦𝗧𝗦:

Facebook.com/groups/MichiganAuroraChasers